Author: Rochkirstin Santos-Sioco

We stayed at Pinehurst Suites when we visited Legazpi in Albay for three days and two nights. This 3-star hotel is very near the airport and has a good location since all modes of transportation available (taxi, tricycle, and jeepney) pass by this street. Pinehurst Suites is about 3.2 km away from Mayon Volcano and Cagsawa Ruins Park and only 1 km away from the city center. No wonder it’s a popular choice among travelers whether on business or holiday. Amenities and accommodation are satisfactory. (Click here to read about the top 10 attractions we visited in Albay.)

Review of Pinehurst Suites (Legazpi City, Albay)

Ambiance:

Pinehurst Suites features 18 guest rooms, many of which include wireless Internet access, air conditioning, desk, balcony/terrace, and a television set. There are no recreational facilities like a gym or a swimming pool, but that’s fine if you’re like us who intend only to find a convenient place to stay in Legazpi.

We booked a 23-square meter room with one bedroom. The room has subtle lighting with minimalist white walls. It has a kitchenette, dining area, bathroom, and two beds. Since we were five, we ordered an additional mattress including a pillow and a blanket. No luxurious furnishings and quirky statement art could be found here. It just looked simple and good enough to live in comfortably. Ambiance was not too blissfully quiet, but we were not bothered by the sound of cars and other things going on outside.

Service:

Unlike regular hotels, Pinehurst Suites doesn’t have a decent reception area. We pressed the buzzer and the innkeeper welcomed us in. I had my fingerprint recorded in the fingerprint-reading doorbell so we could enter and have access through the gate anytime even if there are no staff present in their office.

Checking in was easy. We were provided with a key for our room and an assistant helped us carry our luggage to the second floor. Throughout our stay, the innkeeper was hospitable and provided us everything we needed. The room was tidied up as necessary. Breakfast was delivered to our door each morning, as promised in the booking details.

Price for Value:

A seamless fusion of urban minimalism, Pinehurst Suites in Albay ensures a restful night when you’re on a vacation. It’s a few minutes of ride away from the market where you can buy souvenirs and also near various points of interest. Room rate is around PhP 1700 per night and there’s an additional charge for the extra bed (we were five). There’s nothing more interesting and unexpected to see inside the hotel, but a view of the Mayon Volcano definitely adds to the charm and value.

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It was my first time to visit Sagada and I didn’t have expectations on what we would see and experience here. My knowledge of the place was also limited. The only thing I know was that it’s where some of the scenes of the rom-com movie “That Thing Called Tadhana” starring Angelica Panganiban and JM de Guzman were filmed. We traveled by car via a private tour company and took the Banaue Route (Banaue Rice Terraces), where we stopped by shortly for a photo-op. The ride was twisty and bumpy, and it took us about 12 hours from Manila to get to our inn. In this post, I’m featuring the top 10 iconic tourist attractions and stories that make up our short vacation in Sagada after Holy Week.

Trip to Sagada: Top 10 Tourist Spots We Visited (Mountain Province)

1. Sumaguing Cave

Straight from our long travel from Manila, after leaving our bags in the hotel, we went to Sumaguing Cave. This cave in Sagada Mountain Province is a very well-known spelunking site which can be both fun and dangerous. It’s a must-do for those who are adventurous and free-spirited, but not for the faint of heart.

There was a report about a death of a 15-year-old boy who slipped and died just a few days before our trip. The rescue teams and Sagada town police failed to save the boy’s life. With the tragedy, I guess the key takeaway is: do not enter the cave without a guide and when in doubt, don’t attempt to enter at all.

I did not have pictures of the cave since we were advised to leave all our belongings, including cameras and phones, in the car to prevent losses and damages. It’s very dark inside Sumaguing Cave, and lights were provided only by the local guides. The rocks were slippery so it’s a challenge to find a good balance with every step going down. Wearing comfortable and stretchy pants is a must.

There are two entry points to the inspiring cave system. We chose the easier one, where expected completion time is about three to four hours. The other entry point requires double the time for the entire caving experience and can be more physically demanding. It’s a real test of endurance, patience, flexibility, and stamina. I look up to senior citizens and children who finished the exploration. It’s not for everyone, but it’s definitely worth a try.

What to expect to see inside (aside from pitch-black view)? Witness a cavern filled with wonderful rocks and curvatures. Let your imagination run wild. It gets a bit crowded though because of the time it takes having to go up and down the cave. There’s flood-like water up to the chest so get ready to be wet. Bring a set of clothes to change into after spelunking. For footwear, wear flip-flops or waterproof hiking shoes or go barefooted if necessary. Comfort rooms are available for washing and bathing.

2. Hanging Coffins of Echo Valley and St. Mary the Virgin Episcopal Church

The hanging coffins of Echo Valley are the second most popular attraction in Sagada after Sumaguing Cave. It was another day of hiking and our leg muscles were beginning to sore. 😛 Anyway, to see the hanging coffins up close and discover the mystery behind, we walked past the cemetery and hiked into the valley. This took us less than an hour.

We hired a guide from the Sagada tourism office. He told us about the death rituals of the Igorot people, the history of some commemorative headstones, and more interesting facts that made us just nod our heads in awe.

The practice of hanging coffins is being done in societies in China, Indonesia, and the Philippines for thousands of years. According to their belief, the younger generations of the ancient Igorot elders will benefit spiritually from the success of the burial, and only true-blooded Igorots who died from natural cause can be put inside the suspended coffins. During burial, family members of the deceased may carry the corpse to its waiting coffin at the cliff edge in order to be contaminated by the bodily fluids. These fluids are thought to contain the talent and luck of their dead relative.

We saw small coffins and thought these were for children. What’s true is that by tradition, cadavers were forced into a fetal position to mimic the position of a baby within a coffin carved from a tree trunk. It is believed that souls should leave the earth the same way they entered it. Knowledge of the practice is passed down through word of mouth by Applai elders. Our local guide is also an Igorot and told us that the coffins are perched on the cliff and on the rocks also for pragmatic reasons. They’re protected from wild animals and humans (who steal bones and other stuff from the coffins).

We also visited St. Mary the Virgin Episcopal Church, the main Episcopalian church in Sagada. It was built in the 1900s and was founded by the Reverend John Staunton who came to Sagada to spread the Christian faith to its local people. Sagada is a predominantly Protestant community, with 95% of its population sharing the faith.

3. Bomod-ok Waterfalls

Hidden behind rice paddies and small mountain villages, Bomod-ok Waterfalls is known locally as the Big Falls. I thought it’s pronounced as “Bomod-okay” but it’s correct to say just “Bomod-ok.” Bomod is a Bontoc term that means big. Our guide said it’s a nice, leisurely walk to get to the falls, but then the trek took about two to three hours. I was wearing a jacket not because it was cold but to protect my skin against the sun. It was too hot, but a sunny day is still better than a rainy day when trekking to the falls.

The pathways may be narrow but they’re well-maintained, consisting of a series of (unending, it felt like) stone stairs that are mostly descending. God bless your knees. I stopped counting the steps when we reached the hundredth and I was glad I did. It’s way farther than we expected! These same steps are taken by locals if they need to go to the upper part of the town like the hospital. For those who aren’t physically able, villagers help them out and carry them all the way. God bless these people. 

We got so perspired and sometimes so out of breath that we needed to stop for respite. The beautiful landscapes looked so photogenic and seeing glorious views of the valley with rice terraces was quite rewarding. Upon reaching the falls, some of us soaked in the cold waters. The down-pouring falls is about 200 feet tall splashing down on its basin pool having a below 15 degrees Celsius. Swimming is allowed. It’s okay to spend some time here but make sure to save energy for the grueling ascending steps on the way back. 😉

4. Lumiang Burial Cave

Another traditional way of burying the deceased aside from hanging coffins is by stacking the coffins at the opening of the cave per the belief that light coming in will protect the soul of the dead from bad spirits. Coffins stacked one after another create an entire wall. There’s at least a hundred of them that have been there for over 500 years. Visiting Lumiang Burial Cave will make you see this wonder. We asked if the relatives of those buried here do visit the dead. The local guide said that they don’t but instead, they perform rituals at home. Trekking takes about an hour.

The Lumiang Burial Cave is another route to get to the Sumaguing Cave (Sagada Cave Connection). It’s a thrilling adventure that’s recommended for people who always look for any possible experience. You definitely have to be a bit athletic and be extra cautious because there are slippery rocks and you could easily get cut. There is a lack of ropes, no guard rails, no lighting, and one foot slip might end in death.

5. Kiltepan Viewpoint

We woke up one morning at 4AM to see the sunrise at the Kiltepan Viewpoint. Unfortunately, Mr. Sun did not show up on time and we justify at 5:30AM when it did. 🙁 This place was made famous by the movie, so as expected, there’s a lot of tourists going up here. It was so crowded and felt like we were still in Manila. We didn’t see the sun but only cloudy a sea of clouds and a good view of the mountains. To kill time, we ate breakfast and bought food from vendors. We also got to try Sagada’s famous lemon pie.

6. Lake Danum

Lake Danum is where tourists go to see sundown. Locals say it offers the best view of sunset in Sagada, but the lake itself is nothing to be excited about. It seemed more like a pond, very plain with brown muddy water, and it looked like nothing lived in it. Lake Danum has its charm though. It’s serene and a good place for picnic. It’s also where we tasted several flavors of yogurt.

Again, the trip up is a bit tiring because it’s steep. We were ahead of others in reaching the viewing deck and was disappointed because we only saw the mist and thick clouds covering the sun. The place can be skipped if you’re not really into watching the sunset.

7. Yoghurt House

Yoghurt House was about 15-20 minutes of walking distance away from our hotel. It’s very popular since it has been voted as the number-one restaurant in Sagada for its yogurt. We ordered their best-sellers but didn’t find the yogurts tastier and better than those served in Manila. Texture was thick like mayonnaise and taste was just bad. In any case, they say that a Sagada trip is not complete without a moment at Yoghurt House. If you love yogurt, follow your heart, and if it’s not too busy, you may have a religious experience.

8. Sagada Pottery and Training Center

Located on the road going to Danum Lake, Sagada Pottery is housed in an almost run-down shop. It’s actually a workshop and a gallery of the great pottery artisans of Sagada. Pieces of finished pottery are displayed in the area, and earthenware can be purchased for a nice souvenir with prices ranging from Php 200 and above. A live narrative demo is presented to show how pottery started in Sagada. The fee depends on the number of people per group.

9. Sagada Weaving

If you’re looking for hand-woven items, Sagada Weaving is a recommended destination. Tourists are prohibited to take pictures of the workers, so I was careful not to include them in the frame. There’s a store selling souvenirs and another area at the back where people demonstrate the use weaving machines to make the handicraft products. Sagada Weaving is a good example of how Filipinos do craftsmanship with style, comfort, toughness, price and fashion.

10. Ganduyan Museum

The Ganduyan Museum is a private property owned by a family in Sagada. It did not look attractive from the outside, so we were a bit surprised with the large collection of antiques inside the museum. Mr. Aben, the son of the collector named Christina Aben, introduced us to every curated item and told about his mom’s interest with the artifacts. All of us viewers were seated on the floor, while he did the orientation.

The 20-minute session was educational and informative. Hearing his story is a good way to appreciate the true value of family tradition, the history of Sagada and its people. The museum will be expanded and will be relocated to another place soon.

Wrap Up

Sagada is a beautiful place in the Philippines where tourists spend most of the time trekking, hiking, visiting historical sites, and food-tripping. We enjoyed the peace and serenity but were not so happy with the really hot climate in the morning until the afternoon when we expected to experience cool climate in the Mountain Province from day to night. Three days were enough for us to see the major sights. If you’re planning to go, take cash with you because the whole town only has one ATM which is not always working.

It has long been our plan to go to my paternal grandmother’s hometown in Bicol. My dad was seven years old when he last visited, and it took more than five decades until his return. Lots of things have changed and he could not recognize those that used to be familiar. We took a plane via Cebu Pacific Air and were surprised that travel time was less than an hour from Manila (whereas a bus ride takes more than 9-12 hours), even less than my driving time to work. 😉 Bus time schedule is posted here.

We spent two days exploring tourist attractions in Legazpi and a day in Ligao, my Amah’s hometown, where we went to houses of some relatives and family friends who were very close to our ancestors. They told us stories while reminiscing the past, all of which were heartfelt and heartwarming. In this post, I’m sharing the 10 best tourist spots we visited in Albay (Bicol Region).

10 Tourist Spots We Visited in Albay (Bicol Region)

1. Cagsawa Ruins

From our hotel, it took only about 10 minutes for us to reach the Cagsawa Ruins by jeep. The Cagsawa Ruins are the remains of a 17th century church built by the Franciscans. The reason why this “church” is so amazing is that in February 1, 1814, Mt. Mayon began its most violent and deadly eruption in recorded history. The church, along with most of the town of Cagsawa, was unfortunately destroyed by lahars and pyroclastic flows, killing thousands of inhabitants.

The remains of Cagsawa Church was buried by the eruption, and only the belfry (bell tower) remained visible since then. It’s a grim reminder of the devastating catastrophe that occurred. For more than two centuries, the church ruins have withstood the test of time. In 2015, the site was declared a national cultural treasure, the Philippines’ highest designation for a cultural property.

Here, we saw Mayon Volcano (covered by clouds though) that has graced thousands of postcards and souvenirs over the years. It’s definitely a great location where tourists can use a selfie stick and capture a memory to share on Facebook or Instagram. We shopped for some souvenirs from shops selling a colorful assortment of native products such as handbags, mats, shirts and handicraft made from indigenous materials like abaca. We also tried chili pili ice cream which tasted creamy and hot.

2. Ligñon Hill Nature Park

If you want to see a panoramic 360-degree view of Legazpi City, Daraga, Albay Gulf and the Mayon Volcano awaiting at the viewdeck, this is the best place to go. Ligñon Hill (pronounced as /li-NYON/) is one of Legazpi’s most famous landmarks. For years, it’s known only for the PHIVOLCS observatory located in its flanks and an old lighthouse on its summit.

During the times of the volcano’s eruption and heavy rains, this hill blocked the flow of lava and lahar, protecting the city from unimaginable destruction. Today, it has become one of the city’s prime destinations for sightseers, adventurers and even fitness buffs. It has turned into a nature park that offers sights and activities for all types of visitors.

The way to ascend Ligñon Hill by foot is very steep. We met two joggers who offered us a free ride to the top. We rode their car and had the opportunity to see the spectacular sight at the peak. We also went to the Japanese Tunnel, an arms cache used by the Japanese forces during WWII. This 50-foot tunnel gives visitors a chance to act like soldiers. It’s super dark inside!

3. Legazpi Boulevard

The two joggers we met in Ligñon Hill drove us next to Legazpi Boulevard, and we thanked them a lot for the free ride and free tour. We were supposed to hire a taxi to tour us around, but cost was too expensive (Php 3500 for 8 hours) so we backed out. We were so lucky to have encountered people who became our instant tour guides. 🙂 As a token of appreciation, we invited them to have dinner with us at Small Talk Cafe, our treat.

The Legazpi Boulevard is a coastal road network extending from the city’s central business district and port area to the southern barangays. It’s like Roxas Boulevard in Manila where you can stroll by the seashore, but what’s notably different is that here, you’ll see the Mayon Volcano and the Kapuntukan hill to the north, the Albay Gulf and its islands to the east, and the mountains of Sorsogon to the south. It’s a must-visit destination when in Legazpi.

4. Mayon Volcano

The Mayon Volcano, also known as Mount Mayon, is the most iconic landmark of Albay. It’s an active volcano that arguably has one of the most perfectly shaped cone and one of the most beautiful in the world. According to history, the longest uninterrupted eruption of Mayon Volcano occurred on June 23, 1897. The eruption lasted for seven days of raining fire. The village of Bacacay was buried 15 meters beneath the lava and killed hundreds of people in nearby villages.

ATVs (all terrain vehicles) are available for rent to further explore Mayon Volcano lava front. There are also people who dare to climb (usually takes four days to complete). The best recommended time of the year to climb Mount Mayon is from March to May.

5. Kawa-Kawa Hill

Kawa-Kawa Hill is a popular pilgrimage site in Ligao, Albay. It’s an uphill devotional tour where larger-than-life statues stand representing significant events that took place before and after Christ’s arrest, persecution, and crucifixion. We stopped by in each of the 14 Stations of the Cross and took photos while under the scorching heat of the sun. It was a painstaking but worthwhile experience.

The nanny who took care of me when I was a baby went with us (she’s from Ligao City), and we did a lot of chatting while walking through the trail. We did sweat a lot and felt relieved when we finally reached the summit. My comical sister hence joked that instead of “Kawa-Kawa Hill,” it should be renamed as “Kaawa-awa” (meaning pitiful)—describing tired people hiking up. 🙂

The skyline looked marvelous! We clearly saw how the hill is shaped like a wok or giant cauldron. Wok is “kawa” in Filipino language. It’s interesting to know that Kawa-Kawa Hill is a hill without a top and it’s a hill with a crater covered with a luscious green grass and landscape.

6. Divine Mercy Shrine and Carmelite Monastery

Just before we proceeded to the top of Kawa-Kawa Hill, we passed by Divine Mercy Shrine and Carmelite Monastery in Ligao. It’s a church situated at the top of the hill. People who donated to the church have justify footprints on the stairs. Beside the church is a life-size Last Supper sculpture, where we took several photos and stayed pit for a while to gaze at the art.

7. Daraga Church

Nuestra Señora de la Porteria Parish Church, commonly known as Daraga Church, is a Roman Catholic Church in the municipality of Daraga, Albay, Philippines under the jurisdiction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Legazpi. It’s situated on top of a hill above the bustling town. Now a historical landmark, Daraga Church is a testament to the unwavering faith and resilience of the Bicolano.

There’s a writing on the stone wall stating that devotees of Cagsawa Church moved here when the Mayon Volcano erupted in 1814 affecting Cagsawa. This architectural gem also served as the Japanese station and was severely damaged during World War II in 1945. It was reconstructed in 1971 to 1973 by Filipinos using an indigenous baroque style that distinguishes it from other colonial churches in the Philippines.

The facade was carefully carved from volcanic stones. Its distinct features include four spiral columns with medallions at the center of each column bearing images of the four Evangelists. In 2007, Daraga Church was declared as a National Historical Site. The church underwent restoration work in 2009-2010 to preserve its facade which is deteriorating because of age.

8. Pacific Mall (Gaisano Mall Legazpi)

My sister loves going to the mall every time she finds herself in a rural setting. 🙂 The city girl smiled to her heart’s content as we walked to the mall entrance. When in opened in 2001, Pacific Mall used to be Legazpi’s most prestigious but then its status has declined through the years, as more malls such as Ayala Malls and Robinson’s have been developed in the city.

Nonetheless, Pacific Mall is a good place to go. It has a supermarket and department store and offers a selection of national and local retail shops, restaurants, boutiques, salons, cinemas, food court, and amusement center. What we didn’t like is the dim lighting and the outdated atmosphere, which made us feel somehow that we were transported to the past.

9. Ayala Malls Legazpi

Ayala Malls Legazpi boasts of a four-storey high atrium that was designed for shoppers to enjoy natural lighting and ventilation, adore Ayala Malls’ signature events, and admire the city’s majestic views of Mayon Volcano. We had dinner at Graceland and didn’t have more time to go around, but easily we can conclude that Ayala Malls looked and felt far more modern than Pacific Mall. It showcases the best of local, homegrown concepts and affordable fashion and foreign labels. In partnership with LCC, it aims to be the region’s mall of choice by providing a unique shopping, dining and entertainment experience to the Bicolanos.

10. Souvenir Shops at the Legazpi Terminal

We could not leave Legazpi without bringing home souvenirs or pasalubong for our friends. The Legazpi Terminal is about five minutes of walking distance away from Pacific Mall. Various keepsakes in jars like pili, laing, Bicol express, and chili paste and Bicol souvenir items like keychains, bags, shirts, hats, scarfs, refrigerator magnets, wallets, and house decors are being sold. We bought almost all items from a store named Bedez Benz Souvenir and Pili Candies.

Wrap Up

In 3D2N, we discovered the beauty of Legazpi and Ligao in Albay, which includes not only the famous tourist spots but also its genuinely humble and inspiring people who helped us with our travel itinerary.  The locals showed hospitality and friendliness that are hallmarks of their culture. We’re so grateful for their kindness. Without them, we seriously could have wasted more time finding out where to go, where to eat, and where to shop!

We’re happy to have traveled in Albay in Bicol region as a family. Witnessing nature’s grandeur abounds in an adventure destination in the Philippines and exposing ourselves into a melting pot of Bicolano culture was both fun and enlightening rolled into one.

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